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                                 Agriculture
                                 <see image>
 

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                             Earth Moving Devices
                       For Irrigation and Road-Building
 
Moving soil for irrigation and road-building is important to good farming. Careful
preparation of land for irrigation and good water usage saves water, labor, and
soil, and improves crop yields. Improved roads make communication easier between
farmers, their suppliers, and their markets.
 
Although modern heavy equipment is often sought for such work, it is not
necessary. Land can be prepared effectively with small equipment that can be
made by farmers or small manufacturers and can be pulled by animals or farm
tractors. Descriptions of yokes and harnesses are given in Animal Traction, by
Peter R. Watson, published by Peace Corps and TransCentury Corporation (1981).
 
The following seven entries describe such small equipment:
 
     o Drag Grader
     o Fresno Scraper(*)
     o Barrel Fresno Scraper
     o Float with adjustable blade
     o Buck Scraper(*)
     o V-Drag(*)
     o Multiple Hitches
 
(*) The fresno scraper, buck scraper, and V-drag are designed for use with large
horses.
 
DRAG GRADER
 
This simple metal-edged wooden grader is designed for two medium-sized work
horses or oxen. The grader can be scaled down for use with one horse or with
smaller animals.
 
Road-building does not require giant tractors and earth movers. The grader
described here was used for dirt and gravel roads in the midwestern United States
in the 1920s. Similar graders were used in the original construction of U.S.
Highway No. 1 from Maine to Florida.
 
                              Tools and Materials
 
Lumber: 7.5cm x 30.5cm (3" x 12")
     2 pieces: 243cm (8') long
     1 piece: 152cm (5') long
     2 pieces: 30.5cm (1') long
Lumber: 7.5cm x 15cm (3" x 6")
     1 piece: 37 cm (4 1/2") long
4 Metal edges: 6mm to 12.5mm (1/4" to 1/2") thick, 10cm (4")
wide, 243cm (8') long
17 Lag screws: 16mm (5/8") in diameter, 18cm (7") long
2 Eye bolts, 7.5cm (3") diameter, and large lock washers
Heavy chain: 3.7m (12')
32 Flathead steel wood screws, 7.5cm (3") long. (Carriage bolts with lock washers
would strengthen the grader.)
 
Construction details for the grader are shown in Figure 1. The metal edge overhangs

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the surfaces of the 243cm (8') beam by 2.5cm (1"). Each edge is attached
with eight large wood screws or
carriage bolts. Lock washers should
be used throughout to keep strains
and tensions from loosening the
nuts. The metal edges are attached
to both top and bottom so the
grader can be turned over to
reverse the direction in which the
soil is cast.
 
If the grader is to be used for
cleaning ditches, the angle between
the 152cm (5') and 243cm (8')
beams should be 30 degrees.
 
The drawing position of the grader is adjusted by changing the hitching point on
the chain. The hitch link should be such that when the small end is put over a
link it will not slide. Reverse the hitch ring to slide it along the chain.
 
If welding equipment is available, the same design can be used for making steel
road graders, with cutting edges hard-surfaced to make them last longer.
 
Source:
 
Richard Hunger, John McCarthy and John Rediger, VITA Volunteers, Peoria,
Illinois.
 
Vernon E. Moore, VITA Volunteer, Washington, D.C.
 
FRESNO SCRAPER
 
This scraper is used for moving larger amounts of earth from higher spots to low
areas. It can be made at low cost by farmers or small manufacturers, if materials
and a well-equipped blacksmith shop are available. The scraper can do the work
of larger, more expensive equipment. <see figure 1>

fg1x203.gif (600x600)


 
Implements that slide soil on soil are inefficient. They require a large amount of
power to move a small amount of soil. The fresno scraper can move soil more
easily because it slides on its metal bottom. It is a large metal scoop that can be
built in a number of sizes, depending on the number of animals that can be used
to pull it. Good results will be obtained by using the size described here with two
oxen or two to four horses. Construction details are given in Figures 2 to 5.

fg2x2060.gif (600x600)


 
To use the scraper, first plow the high spots that you want to remove. This will
make it easier to load the fresno and save a great deal of power.
 
The fresno is made so that the power used to pull it will also help in loading and
unloading. The rope in the handle is used for pulling the scoop into position for
loading and to spread the soil evenly when unloading.
 
Always be careful when operating the fresno. Do not have any part of your body
directly above the handle. Always keep a firm grip on the handle, while loading
or getting ready to unload. A sudden jerk or unseen rough spot may cause the
handle bar to fly up and strike you.
 
To load the fresno, simply lift the handle until the front of the bit goes into the
ground at a depth the animals can pull. Do not try to make too deep a cut or the
fresno will be pulled over or the animals pulled to a stop. You will soon learn
how to hold the handle for the proper cut and smooth loading.
 
When the fresno is full, push down on the handle and it will go forward without
touching the ground until you are ready to unload it. Lift the handle when you
are ready to unload and the pull of the animals will turn it into the dumping or
spreading position. The stop bar across the top of the fresno can be moved to
change the depth of the spreading of soil. Move it forward for a shallow depth or
back for a deeper spread.
 
After it has been emptied and returned to the point of loading give the rope a
hard pull and the fresno will fall back into position for loading.
 
Usual hitches for animals pulling the fresno are:
 
    o two horses
    o two oxen
    o three horses
 
Two lines are used. Each outside horse is tied back to the hame or collar of the
center horse. The center horse is then guided by the inside strap from the lines.
 
                              Tools and Materials
 
2 steel plates for sides:                   2 draft bar rod stock:
  6mm x 40cm x 60cm                          20mm x 1.2 meters
  (1/4" x 15 3/4" x 23 5/8")                  (25/32" x 47 1/4")
 
1 steel plate for blade:                    2 draft bar rod stock:
  6mm x 35cm x 1.24 meters                   20mm x 95cm
  (1/4" x 13 3/4" x 48 7/8")                  (25/32" x 37 3/8")
 
1 steel plate for backplate:                2 draft bar loop stock:
  6mm x 52cm x 1.24 meters                   20mm x 45cm
  (1/4" X 20 1/2" X 48 7/8")                  (25/32" X 17 3/4")
 
4 steel plates for stiffener plates:        2 draft bar loop stock:
  6mm x 10cm x 18cm                           20mm x 38cm
  (1/4" x 4" x 7 1/8")                        (25/32" x 15")
 
1 steel plate for stiffener plate:          2 eye bolts with nuts and washers:
  6mm x 10cm x 28cm                          20mm x 25cm
  (1/4" x 4" x 11")                          (25/32" x 9 7/8")
 
75 flathead rivets:                         2 strap iron clevis stock:
  15mm x 3cm (19/32" x 1 1/8")               10mm x 4cm x 60cm
                                             (3/8" x 1 9/16" x 23 5/8")
12 flathead rivets:
  20mm x 3cm (25/32" x 1 1/8")             2 machine bolts with nuts & washers:
                                             13mm x 10cm
                                             (1/2" X 4")
 
2 angle irons for runner:
  6mm x 45mm x 45mm x 1.57 meters
  (1/4" x 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x 62 13/16")     1 oak draft bar:
                                             6cm x 15cm x 1.52m
2 steel plates for shoes:                     (2 3/8" x 6" x 59 7/8")
  6mm x 12.5cm x 66cm
  (1/4" x 5" x 26")                        4 machine bolts with nuts & washers:
                                             13mm x 6cm
2 strap irons for bar brace:                  (1/2" x 2 3/8")
  10mm x 4cm x 32cm
  (3/8" x 1 9/16" x 12 5/8")               8 machine bolts with nuts & washers:
                                             13mm x 4cm
1 iron bar for handlebar                      (1/2" x 1 9/16")
  15mm x 5cm x 1.6 meters
  (9/16" x 2" x 63")                       1 oak stop bar:
                                             4cm x 8cm x 1.45 meters
1 rope:                                       (1 9/16" x 3 1/8" x 57 1/8")
  13mm x 2 meters
  (1/2" x 78 3/4")                         2 stop bar stock:
                                             threaded one end
2 side plates, draft clamp stock:
  20mm x 21cm                               2 stop bar ball nuts & washer:
  (25/32" x 8 1/4")                          13mm (1/2")
 
2 machine bolts with nut and washer:
  13mm x 4cm (1/2" x 1 9/16")
 
Source:
 
Forsberg, Carl M., Metzger, James D. and Steele, John C. Construction and Use of
Small Equipment for Farm Irrigation. USOM/Turkey, in cooperation with the
Turkish Ministry of Agriculture.
 
BARREL FRESNO SCRAPER
 
The barrel fresno scraper (Figure 1) is a lighter, simpler version of the fresno

fg1x209.gif (540x540)


scraper described in the preceding entry. It is a low-cost implement to move soil
efficiently. It can be pulled by a
team of bullocks and is operated by
one person.
 
The scraper, which is well-adapted
to production by a village blacksmith,
is made from an old barrel
and scrap metal. The scraper can
be adapted for heavy duty use.
 
The barrel fresno scraper presented here was built and tested in Afghanistan. It
was found that it could move approximately twice as much soil as the shovel
board normally used by the Afghan farmer. The scraper worked better when the
high spots were plowed with a mold-board plow, which breaks up the soil, making
it easier to pick up. Using the local wooden plow was satisfactory but it left the
soil cloddy.
 
It is estimated that it could be used for 8 to 10 years under normal farm use on.
Under other conditions, particularly where the soil is sandy or where the scraper
is used for road or terrace construction, its life would be much shorter.
 
                              Tools and Materials
 
Heavy hammer
Chisel - for cutting barrel
Punch - for making holes in barrel
Saw - for cutting wood
Drill - for boring holes in wood
Pliers
Welder or access to the services of a welder
Barrel, 208-liter (55-U.S. gallon) as new and strong as possible. Rust weakens the
metal and a rusty barrel should not be used.
Blade, metal, 1 piece, 5 to 8mm (3/16" to 5/16") thick, 88cm (34 5/8") long. Have
a blacksmith taper the blade until it has this shape ==\ when viewed from the
end. The blade should be sharp. Old truck springs make good blades.
Blade holder, metal, 2 pieces, 5 to 8mm (3/16" to 5/16") thick
Handle, wood, 1 piece, if soft wood 4 by 8cm (1 9/16" x 3 1/8") or pole 8cm (3
1/8") in diameter at large end, 3m (9'10")
Handle brace, wood, 1 piece, 3cm by 8cm by 150cm (1 3/16" x 3 1/8" x 59")
Block wood, 1 piece, 3cm by 8cm by 12cm (1 3/16" x 3 1/8" x 4 3/4")
Bolt, 1 piece, 1cm diameter by 10cm (3/8" x 4")
Nails, 5 pieces, 9cm (3 1/2") long
Wire, heavy - at least 3mm (1/8") thick, 12m (39') long
Chain, 4m (13'), made from 7mm (9/32") rod, with hook at each end. See Figure 1.
Rope, 12mm (1/2") diameter, 3m (9'10") long
 
Construction
 
Cut the barrel, starting next to the welded seam, as shown in Figure 3 below

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(also see Figure 1). The cut is exactly half way around the barrel.
 
Pull the cut-out section forward and flatten it with a hammer (Figure 4). Fold the

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cut-out section back 17 to 20 cm (6 3/4" to 7 7/8") from the end of the cut,
depending on the width of the blade, to form a double bottom (see Figure 5).

fg5x210.gif (437x486)


 
The blade can be installed by welding or by riveting.
 
To install the blade by welding (see Figure 1):
 
   -   Butt the blade (see Tools and Materials) against the barrel fold and
      spot weld it. Five spots of welding 3cm (1 3/16") long, evenly spaced,
      are enough.
 
   -   The lower tip of the blade holder (see Tools and Materials) should be
      even with the end of the cut).
 
   -   Weld the blade holder at the outside of the barrel to the heavy rim.
 
   -   Weld the blade to the bottom of the blade holder.
 
To install the blade by riveting:
 
   -   No blade holder is required.
 
   -   The metal for the blade should be 5 to 8mm (3/16" to 5/16") thick, 8
      to 12cm (3 1/8" to 4 3/4") wide and 164cm (64 1/2") long. Taper and
      sharpen the blade before bending.
 
   -   Bend the blade up at right angles 40cm (15 3/4") from each end. This
      will leave the main part of the blade 86cm (33 7/8") long to fit
      inside the barrel.
 
   -   Insert the blade.
 
   -   Drill holes and rivet as shown in Figure 6.

fg6x211.gif (486x486)


 
   -   The folded part of the barrel bottom should extend 3cm (1 3/16")
      under the blade and be riveted to the bottom of the blade.
 
Install the handle and handle brace (Figure 7):

fg7x212.gif (300x600)


 
   -   Position the barrel so the edge of the blade is exactly 4cm above the
      floor.
 
   -   Taper the end of the handle and place it in the position shown in
      the sketch, making sure it is in the center of the barrel.
 
   -   Punch a hole through the bottom of the barrel, drill a hole through
      the end of the handle, and bolt the handle to the barrel.
 
   -   Bend 2 1/2cm of the edge of the barrel metal up as shown in Figure 1.
      Punch 2 small holes in the metal and drive 2 nails through the
      holes into the end of the wooden brace.
 
   -   Making sure the blade is still 4cm from the floor, nail the wooden
      block against the end of the wooden brace.
 
   -   Drive a nail through the end of the brace into the handle.
 
Install the brace wires and rope (Figure 8):

fg8x212.gif (300x600)


 
   -   Punch holes through the side and end of the barrel halfway between
      the bolt and brace end.
 
   -   Fix 4 strands of wire through the holes and around the brace and
      handle.
 
   -   Twist the wires with a small stick to tighten the wire braces, making
      sure the handle is at right angles to the barrel.
 
   -   Drill a 1 1/2cm hole, 20cm from the end of the handle. Thread the
      end of the rope through the hole and make a knot at each end.
 
Make holes for installing chain (Figure 9).

fg9x213.gif (300x600)


 
Install chain (see Figures 1 and 2).
 
Operation
 
When operating the barrel fresno scraper, always be careful not to have any part
of your body directly above the handle.
 
Keep a firm grip on the handle while loading, during operation, and getting ready
to unload. An unseen rough spot may cause a sudden jerk, which will make the
handle fly up and strike you.
 
Before using the scraper, plow the high spots that you want to remove. This will
make it easier to load the soil.
 
The power used to pull the scraper will also help in loading and unloading. Use
the rope in the handle to pull the scraper into position for loading and for
spreading the soil evenly when unloading.
 
To load the scraper, simply lift the handle to let the blade go into the soil. Do
not make too deep a cut: this would either pull the scraper over or pull the
animals to a stop.
 
 
You will learn by experience how to hold the handle for a proper cut and smooth
handling.
 
When the scraper is full, push down on the handle to let the loaded scraper slide
forward without picking up more soil to where you want to unload it.
 
To unload, lift the handle. The pull of the animals will move the scraper into
dumping position. To spread the soil evenly, hold the rope tight. To dump the soil
in a pile, let the rope go.
 
Repairing the Barrel Fresno Scraper
 
To repair the scraper when the bottom starts to wear through, cut off the unworn
part of the cut-out section of the barrel and weld or rivet it over the old
bottom. When the rims of the barrel, which serve as runners, start to show wear,
weld or rivet old truck springs or similar heavy strap iron over their entire
length.
 
Adapting for Heavy Duty
 
To adapt the barrel fresno scraper for heavy duty, the two wearing points, the
bottom and the runners, must be reinforced. To reinforce the scraper bottom,
cover it with a heavy iron plate 4 to 6mm (5/32" to 1/4") thick from the rear of
the blade to the bolt that holds the handle. Weld or rivet the plate in place. Reinforce
the runners by welding or riveting old truck springs or other heavy strap
iron as described in the paragraph on repairing the scraper.
 
Source:
 
Dale Fritz, VITA Volunteer, Schenectady, New York
 
FLOAT WITH ADJUSTABLE BLADE
 
The float is very useful for leveling a field before planting a crop. It can be
made by a small manufacturer or a carpenter-blacksmith with locally-available
materials (Figure 1).

fg1x214.gif (400x600)


 
All earth moving operations, where any quantity of soil is moved, leave the land
surface in an uneven condition. The float is the best piece of equipment for
obtaining a smooth, even surface. It is difficult to do a perfect job of leveling
the first season after earth has been moved. The areas from which the soil has
been removed are usually hard and the areas to which it has been moved are soft
so that uneven settling results. Also, general tillage and plowing operations sometimes
roughen the land surface. Using the float over the entire field each season
before planting the crop will help answer these problems. Best results may be
obtained by floating the field in both directions (at 90 degrees), going back and
forth. The last floating should be in the direction of the irrigation flow.
 
When borders are built in a field for border irrigation it is usually best to use
the float over the entire area between the borders before seeding.
 
The float can be built in various widths according to the available power. It is
necessary, however, that the float be at least 5 meters (16") long to ensure a
good job of leveling the earth. The adjustable blade is optional but it is often
desirable if a buck scraper is not available. Common hitches for the float are the
same as used with the fresno. <see figure 2>

fg2x216.gif (600x600)


 
                              Tools and Materials
 
Wood:
  2 runners, 5cm x 30cm x 5.5 meters (2" x 12" x 18')
  3 blades, 5cm x 30cm x 1.8 meters (2" x 12" x 70 7/8")
  2 cross braces, 5cm x 20cm x 1.9 meters (2" x 7 7/8" x 74 13/16")
  2 diagonal braces, 5cm x 15cm x 3.75 meters (2" x 5 7/8" x 12'4")
  2 diagonal braces, 5cm x 15cm x 3 meters (2" x 5 7/8" x 9'9")
  4 side blocks, 5cm x 30cm x 45cm (2" x 12" x 17 3/4")
  1 lever, 5cm x 10cm x 1.5 meters (2" x 4" x 59")
2 strap iron runner plates, 7mm x 50mm x 6 meters (9/32" x 2" x 19'7")
3 angle iron cutting edges, 7mm x 50mm x 1.8 meters (9/32" x 2" x 70 7/8")
2 steel tie rods (threaded both ends), 7mm x 2 meters (9/32" x 78 3/4")
4 nuts, 7mm (9/32")
8 washers, 7mm (9/32")
1 pipe axle, 5cm (2") diameter x 2 meters (78 3/4")
2 steel plates, 10mm x 20cm x 20cm (3/8" x 7 7/8" x 7 7/8")
3 u-bolts, with nuts and washers, 13mm x 20cm (1/2" x 7 7/8")
2 hitch stocks, 7mm x 50mm x 70mm (9/32" x 2" x 27 9/16")
50 flat head screws, 4cm (1 9/16") (No. 14)
15 flat head stove bolts, with nuts and washers, 6mm x 8cm (1/4" x 3 5/32")
4 carriage bolts, with nuts and washers, 13mm x 13cm (1/2" x 5 1/8")
1.5kg nails, 13cm (40d) (5 1/8")
1.5kg nails, 10cm (20d) (4")
1 rope, 10mm x 4 meters (3/8" x 13')
1 chain or cable hitch, 5 meters (16'5")
 
BUCK SCRAPER
 
This buck scraper, <see figure 1> which has been designed for use with large horses or oxen,

fg1x217.gif (540x540)


may be used for leveling small humps of earth where the haul distance is short. It
can be made by a small manufacturer or by a carpenter-blacksmith if equipment
and materials are available.
 
After using the fresno to move large amounts of soil from high spots to low
spots, the surface of the cut and fill areas will usually be rough. The buck
scraper is useful for smoothing out the uneven spots caused by the fresno. It can
be used for filling ditches or for smoothing border irrigation systems. After the
border levee has been made, it is very important to smooth the area between and
close to the levees. The buck scraper can be used very effectively for this
purpose by shortening the hitch on one side and allowing the blade of the scraper
to run at an angle, thus shoving the soil into the the rough areas around the
newly-built levee.
 
Earth moving may be aided by loosening the soil to be moved by plowing before
using the buck scraper.
 
The buck scraper is loaded by pushing down on the handle as the equipment
moves forward. The handle must be held down while the soil is being transported.
The scraper is unloaded by lifting up on the handle. A shallow spread is made by
lifting the handle slightly and a deeper spread by pushing the handle farther
forward.
 
The most common hitches with the buck scraper are:
 
  o   2 oxen
  o   2 horses
  o   3 horses
 
The buck scraper may be made in different sizes according to the available power. <see figure 2>

fg2x218.gif (600x600)


 
                              Tools and Materials
 
1 buck board, 5cm x 30cm x 183cm (2" x 12" x 6')
1 trailer board, 5cm x 30cm x 122cm (2" x 12" x 4')
1 iron pipe handle, 3cm x 2cm (1 3/16" x 3/4")
1 strap iron cutting edge, 6mm x 10cm x 183cm (1/4" x 4" x 6')
4 strap iron hinges, 6mm x 4cm x 30cm (1/4" x 1 9/16" x 12")
2 strap iron, 6mm x 4cm x 30cm (1/4" x 1 9/16" x 12")
2 strap iron pipe clamps, 6mm x 4cm x 15cm (1/4" x 1 9/16" x 6")
2 band strap iron pipe clamps, 6mm x 4cm x 20cm (1/4" x 1 9/16" x 7 7/8")
1 bolt for hinge, 16mm x 46cm (5/8" x 18 1/8")
2 eye bolts, 16mm x 9cm (5/8" x 3 1/2")
2 carriage bolts, 13mm x 13cm (1/2" x 5 1/8")
4 carriage bolts, 13mm x 10cm (1/2" x 4")
22 carriage bolts, 13mm x 8cm (1/2" x 3 1/8")
2 washers, 16mm (5/8")
28 washers, 13mm (1/2")
1 chain or cable hitch, 5mm (3/16")
 
Source:
 
Forsberg, Carl M., Metager, James D., and Steele, John C. Construction and Use
of Small Equipment for Farm Irrigation. USOM/Turkey in cooperation with Turkish
Ministry of Agriculture.
 
V-DRAG
 
The V-Drag (Figure 1) is used for making ditches for irrigation and drainage of

fg1x219.gif (600x600)


fields and roads. It can also be used to make levees (banks) or borders for border
irrigation. The V-Drag can be made locally by carpenter-blacksmiths or small
manufacturers if materials are available. (See Figure 2 for list of materials and

fg2x220.gif (600x600)


construction details.)
 
Plowing Ditches
 
After the desired ditch line has been established by means of a level or transit,
the plow may be used to make a furrow where the line has been staked. Plow
along the line one way, then turn and plow back again in the same furrow but
throwing the soil the other way.
 
When the furrow has been plowed, use the V-Drag to move the soil out of the
furrow. By making a complete round (down and back) the soil can be thrown out
on both sides of the ditch. By alternately plowing and using the V-Drag to throw
the soil out, any desired depth of ditch can be obtained.
 
The method of hitching the animals is important. If two horses are used, it is
necessary to hitch them far enough apart so that both can walk outside the ditch.
If two oxen are used it is important that the yoke be long enough to permit each
animal to walk on the outside of the ditch.
 
If the soil is hard and more power is required, three horses can be used and one
horse can walk in the ditch and one on each side.
 
The depth of cut made by the V-Drag can be adjusted to the available power.
Shortening the hitch will reduce the depth of cut as will shifting your weight to
the back of the drag.
 
Either lengthening the hitch or shifting your weight to the front will increase the
depth of cut.
 
The handle of the V-Drag can be used to vary the width of the ditch. Pressing
down will widen it while lifting up will narrow the width.
 
Building Levees or Borders for Border Irrigation Systems
 
After the desired location has been selected for constructing a levee, or border,
the plow may be used to plow down and back twice and throw the soil into the
border line. The V-Drag can then be used to crowd the soil into a ridge.
 
When a border irrigation system is constructed in this manner it is necessary to
smooth around the border with a buck scraper (see page 217). If the hitch on the
scraper is shortened on one side it will roll the dirt into the border.
 
The Hitch
 
The hitch on the V-Drag is the same for construction of a ditch or a border. Two
horses, two oxen, or three horses are usually satisfactory.
 
Source:
 
Forsberg, Carl M., Metzger, James D., and Steele, John C. Construction and Use
of Small Equipment for Farm Irrigation. USOM/Turkey in cooperation with Turkish
Ministry of Agriculture.
 
MULTIPLE HITCHES
 
Multiple hitches or load eveners are necessary when more than one animal is used
for pulling equipment to adapt the proper power to the load and the job. Correctly-made
hitches enable each animal to do its share of the work and exert an
even pull on a piece of equipment.
 
Various combinations of hitches may be used, according to the job. The most
common hitches are:
 
  o   double trees, or 2-horse evener
  o   3-horse evener
  o   4-horse evener
  o   6-horse evener
 
Figure 1 shows a four-horse evener and a three-horse evener. This illustration is

fg1x222.gif (300x600)


helpful in reading the construction details in Figure 3.

fg3x224.gif (600x600)


 
The major parts of the hitches can be adapted for use with oxen or bullocks.
Figure 2 shows simpler eveners that can be used with horses, oxen, or bullocks.

fg2x222.gif (486x486)


 
Sources:
 
Hoffen, H.J. Farm Implements for
Arid and Tropical Regions. Rome:
Food and Agriculture Organization
of the United Nations, 1960.
 
Forsberg, Carl M., Metzger, James
D., and Steele, John C. Construction
and Use of Small Equipment
for Farm Irrigation. USOM/Turkey,
in cooperation with the Turkish
Ministry of Agriculture.
 
Watson, Peter R. Animal Traction.
Washington, D.C.: Peace Corps and
TransCentury Corporation, 1981.
 
                              Tools and Materials
 
2-horse evener:
 
1 oak plank, 4cm x 10cm x 1 meter (1 9/16" x 4" x 39 3/8")
2 oak bars, 4cm x 6cm x 77cm (1 9/16" x 2 3/8" x 30 5/16")
4 strap irons, 10mm x 4cm x 22.5cm (3/8" x 1 19/16" x 8 7/8")
4 machine bolts with nuts and washers, 13mm x 8cm (1/2" x 3 1/8")
2 carriage bolts with nuts and washers, 10mm x 12cm (3/8" x 4 3/4")
 
3-horse evener:
 
1 oak plank, 4cm x 12cm x 1.52 meters (1 9/16" x 4 3/4" x 59 7/8")
1 oak bar, 4cm x 6cm x 77cm (1 9/16" x 2 3/8" x 30 15/16")
2 strap iron, 10mm x 4cm x 46.5cm (3/8" x 1 9/16" x 18 5/16")
2 strap iron, 10mm x 4cm x 34cm (3/8" x 1 9/16" x 13 3/8")
4 machine bolts with nuts and washers, 13mm x 8cm (1/2" x 3 1/8")
2 carriage bolts with nuts and washers, 10mm x 14cm (3/8" x 5 1/2")
Plus material for one 2-horse evener
 
4-horse evener:
 
1 oak plank, 4cm x 16cm x 1.96 meters (1 9/16" x 6 5/16" x 78")
4 strap iron, 10mm x 4cm x 40cm (3/8" x 1 9/16" x 15 3/4"
4 machine bolts with nuts and washers, 13mm x 8cm (1/2" x 3 1/8")
2 carriage bolts with nuts and washers, 10mm x 18cm (3/8" x 7 1/16")
Plus materials for two 2-horse eveners
 
6-horse evener:
 
1 oak plank, 6cm x 20cm x 2.84 meters (2 3/8" x 7 7/8" x 9' 3 3/4")
4 strap iron, 10mm x 5cm x .45cm (3/8" x 12.5cm x 5/32")
2 machine bolts with nuts and washers, 20mm x 8cm (3/4" x 3 1/8")
2 machine bolts with nuts and washers, 20mm x 10cm (3/4" x 4")
2 carriage bolts with nuts and washers, 10mm x 22cm (3/8" x 8 5/8")
Plus materials for two 3-horse eveners
 
Clevis (U-shaped piece by which draft animal is connected to hitch):
 
1 clevis stock, 20mm x 70cm (3/4" x 27 1/2")
1 machine bolt with nut and washers, 20mm x 12cm (3/4" x 4 3/4")
(one clevis is needed for each horse)